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Dive Notes from a Small Island: Part 1 – The South West

CJ and Mike



“Can you hand me that Phillips head screwdriver?”  Six days. Six days to convert our newly purchased van into a dive camper and begin our summer adventure. We have quite the schedule planned and currently time is tight, as we attempt to complete our biggest DIY project in time to head off to our first port of call, Cornwall, in one week.

Mike and I are diving instructors, recently returned to the UK after working abroad. My partner Mike is from the States and being a keen cold water diver, he is excited to see what UK diving is like. As a lover of my native diving, I decided to plan a two month dive adventure for us over the summer, to show off the best that UK diving has to offer. Now all we have to do is pack and go exploring!

Our itinerary looks like this:

  • July: The South West
  • Early August: Ireland and Northern Ireland
  • Late August: The North East
  • Late August into September: Scotland

The South West – Cornwall

Having completed our dive camper in our allotted time frame without too many hit thumbs and painted elbows, we packed up and headed to the South West. Cornwall was my home for four years during my time at university and first year in the working world; it is where I completed my DM course and so holds a very special place in my heart. I love the diving here and consider it some of the best in the UK. For this reason I have chosen to take Mike here first; that, and the fact it is known territory to begin our trip.

We have four days of diving here, both shore and boat dives. Let’s see what Mike makes of it!

Dive 1: Pendennis (sometimes known as Silver Steps)

Site description:
Pendennis headland separates Falmouth harbour from the bay and has a popular and easy dive site. Characterised by a sprawling reef with gullys to explore, interspersed with sand patches, the maximum depth at high tide is about 10m. The site is popular for training and has a good amount of life and some remains of the German WWII U-Boats, the UB86 and UB112 to the left (eastwards) of the entry point.

The Dive:
We chose this as our first dive to ease into UK diving and revisit one of my old DM training sites, thankfully I could still navigate the site and we enjoyed beautiful sunny, calm conditions, with 6-8m visibility.

Mike’s thoughts:
With an easy shore entry, this dive site seemed to offer a lot in a relatively compact area. It was quite hypnotic to float back and forth in the slight surge among strands of kelp. I especially enjoyed sighting a tompot blenny … one of the fish on my list of must-sees for here in the UK. We even had surprisingly good visibility (up to 8m!); no doubt helped by the sunny summer day.

Dive 2: Kennack Sands

Site description:
Kennack Sands is a surf beach on the Lizard peninsula and while not suitable for diving when the waves are stacking up, it has a great macro site right of the beach when the sea is calm. It is best dived at mid tide so that you can see the rocks you are aiming for and have an easier entry and exit. The rocks are out a little ways so the dive starts with either a surface swim or a sandy bottom (worth exploring for the occasional ray or flounder). The rocks are in about 8m at mid tide and covered in kelp. The best stuff is under the kelp in the gullies between rocks, stick your head under the kelp and search for nudibranchs, anemones, cup corals and crustaceans. Scan the surrounding sand for cuttlefish, which are in abundance.

The Dive:
This was another old favourite for me, as I love nudibranch hunting. Since we were fortunate to have calm conditions off the Lizard, we headed for the surf beach with my friend and local marine life expert, Trudy. Reasonable vis for this time of year made finding the rocks easy, but a slight swell and suspended sand in the water made for challenging photography conditions. However we did see loads of macro life!

Mike’s thoughts:
Another smashing shore dive! With better than average visibility I was blown away by the amount of life in the coastal areas here. As in many temperate regions it’s not always so colorful, so as my creature-spotting eye was still not attuned to the area I was thankful for my dive buddies who were able to show me more local residents such as Polycera nudibranchs, stalk jellyfish, cuttlefish, and a massive population of sea hares in the shallows on the way back to shore.

Dive 3: Vase Rock (Boat dive from Porthkerris)

Site description:
Vase rock is one of the pinnacles of the Manacles, the offshore submerged rocks off the Lizard peninsula. The Manacles have notorious strong currents swirling around them, which has resulted in many wrecks and excellent marine life. It is just a short boat ride from Porthkerris. Vase rock starts at around 6m and steps down to 35m+ and is covered in invertebrate life, such as jewel anemones and pink sea fans. The best life starts below 15m, where the kelp stops and walls are covered in anemones. Porthkerris has a dive center with good facilities: 2 boats, air filling station, campsite, parking, kit washing, an excellent shore dive and friendly staff.

The Dive:
We booked on a 2 dive boat trip to go and see the Manacles, and went out on their smaller boat, the Celtic Kitten, to Vase rock. We had calm surface conditions and slack water, but sadly not the best visibility, but who doesn’t love a bit of British murk? It was enough to navigate, see both your buddies and more importantly, enjoy the life on the rocks!

Mike’s thoughts:
Vase Rock was a fun dive site with a lot of life clinging to the kelp-covered rock pinnacles, and lots of nooks and crannies to explore. A mostly sunny morning helped make the visibility acceptable for the time of year, although a return during the clearer waters in the wintertime is a must. Anemones were abundant, and I especially enjoyed seeing nudibranchs on the pink sea fans. Although common, the cuckoo wrasse were very curious and provided some comic relief.

Dive 4: Pancra (Boat dive from Porthkerris)

Site description:
Pancra Head is a reef between Porthkerris and Porthoustock accessible by boat, usually dived in slack water, it can also be done as a drift for experienced divers. It starts from a shallow plateau at 10m, through gullies and kelp forest down sloping walls to gravel at 30m. It is a site full of life, lobsters, numerous fish, anemones, dead-mans fingers and sea fans.

The Dive:
This was our second boat dive of the day and the tide had started running so we were advised by our boat captain that this site would make a gentle drift dive with great marine life, suitable for everyone on the boat. Having not been to this site, I was excited to go somewhere new and found it was even better that the first dive. The gullies were full of invertebrate life and I saw over 20 pink sea fan nudibranchs; sometimes there were five nudibranchs on one sea fan!

Mike’s thoughts:
The topography of this dive site was quite interesting once again (an underwater pinnacle with lots of gullies). My favorite part of the dive was actually something quite simple to spot: jewel anemones. Their sheer abundance on many of the rock walls as we drifted by the spectacular array of different colors produced an almost kaleidoscopic effect that was absolutely stunning on our sunny day. Dozens of spiny lobsters also provided some interesting subjects to watch. Overall a great dive site; one that definitely upholds the reputation of the Manacles as some of the best diving in the country.

Dive 5: Drawna Rocks (Porthkerris house reef)

Site description:
Drawna rocks is considered one of the best shore dives in Cornwall and for good reason. From the beach you can see the rocks approximately 100m offshore, beyond these a submerged reef continues out for another 200m, from 6m to a depth of 20m. With lots of route options and gullies to explore it is suitable for divers of all levels and is generally sheltered from all but Easterly winds. Below the kelp line you will find the usual (invertebrate) suspects, jewel anemones, tunicates and sponges.

The Dive:
The sea was flat calm and the sun out, promising easy dive conditions: as usual with Cornish summer time the vis wasn’t great due to the plankton, but we could see each other and the shapes of the rocks for navigation. After a short swim out to the deeper areas, we started seeing pink sea fans and soon came to the walls of anemones, cup corals and the nooks and crannies where we were in search of the black-headed blenny. We spent an enjoyable hour with little current, exploring the rocks, before heading into shore and for ice cream at the local Roskilly farm.

Mike’s thoughts:

This was another nice shore dive. With parking just meters from the beach, entry into and exit from the shallow sandy bay was easy. The visibility for us was not great but it was clear that the rocks had lots of nooks and crannies with surprises in store if you could see through the swaying kelp. I enjoyed spotting a black-headed blenny (another first on my UK creature list). I would definitely return … Drawna seemed like the kind of site that rewards repeated visits as the seasons and conditions change.

See you next time!

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Western Ecology Tour Expedition Report: Stats & Scotland

Donovan Lewis



Expedition Overview

During June 2021 a team of us Photographers, Filmmakers, Scientists and Divers took part in the Western Ecology Tour, an expedition that involved diving some of ‘The Best’ of the West Coast of the UK. The Expedition took place between the 17th and 29th of June, and we traveled to 3 key locations throughout the UK. The expedition started out in the Lochs of Scotland and finished along the Pembrokeshire coastline.

The expedition was led by Andy Clark of ATND Services and @fancy_a_brew_podcast. He sought out talent, sponsors, and expertise to aid him in achieving the goals he had planned for the expedition.

The expedition had three main aims; To support scientists who are working to better understand and protect our coastlines, wildlife, and ecosystems, to tell the unseen stories of our hidden coastline, and to promote sustainable adventures.

The expedition had a number of sponsors with all of them supplying equipment to the WET Team, these sponsors included Northern Diver who supplied Cylinders and Dive Lights and a Northern Diver bags for the Crews equipment, Analox who supplied a Nitrox Analyser, Dryrobe who supplied Dry Robes to members of the WET Team, GearAid supplied Cleaning and Repair equipment, Stream2Sea Supplied Alcohol Hand Sanitiser, Neptunic supplied T-Shirts and Rash Vests and Modena Journals supplied Journals to each member of the WET Team to make notes throughout the expedition.

Other sponsors included OThree who donated an array of items for Raffle Prizes and Finisterre who donated a £150 Voucher also for a raffle prize.

A prize raffle was run leading up to the trip, this raised £2,005 with £397 being given to each of the 3 projects that were supported, and the rest going towards supporting the team throughout the expedition. To reduce costs and minimise the teams carbon footprint, we lived life as simply as we could, which we did by staying at campsites.

In total the team collectively covered around 12,500 miles, with travelling taking between 5 – 10 hours to travel between each area of work.

Expedition Stats

  • Collective Miles driven – 12,500
  • Dive Sites Visited – 12
  • Max dive time – 74 Minutes
  • Collective Total Dive Time – 30.7 Hours / 1,847 Minutes
  • Max Depth Reached during Expedition – 34 Metres
  • Camp sites visited – 3
  • Collective Midge Bites (Scotland) – Unknown (Possibly Hundreds)
  • Largest Item of Pollution removed – Oil Drums
  • Projects Supported – 3
  • Total money raised during fundraiser – £2,005
  • Money raised for each charity – £397


In Scotland, our team were supporting Shark & Skate Citizen Science Scotland, with Chris Richard and Dr Lauren Smith. Chris and Lauren are working alongside fisherman and the local community to better understand the movements of the Flapper Skate, an animal that was once in abundance, hence why it used to be called the Common Skate, but it is now classed as a Critically Endangered Species. Chris & Lauren have managed to identify an egg laying site of the Flapper Skate but are unsure of how many animals are using the site and with the surrounding area being used for fishing, it puts the site at risk. Thankfully the specific site is closed to fishing and even diving, Chris & Lauren are working to try and better understand the Skates and learn more about their movements as this will help them place better protections on not just the site itself, but also the routes the Skates are using in and out of the site.

The one thing they mentioned is that the local community are an almost untapped source of local knowledge and resources. Due to the rarity of Flapper Skates Chris and Lauren have put together a Facebook page where local divers, walkers and nature enthusiasts can report their sightings of Flapper Skates and other Shark & Ray species.

We left from Andy’s house in Wigan for around 10:30am and it took us around 10 hours to travel up and arrive at The Wee Campsite which is located on the shores of Loch Carron. As soon as we arrived, we were mobbed by thousands of Highland Midges which resulted in some members of the team having between 10 – 100 midge bites on a single arm. We were warned about this before heading up but we weren’t expecting the sheer amount of them.

The campsite was however situated amongst some of the most breath-taking landscapes and vistas that the UK has to offer. Once we had all set up camp and eaten, it was time to set up our cameras and make sure that we were packed and ready to set off for 9am the next morning.

The First day included diving the shores of Loch Duich with the first Dive Site being outside the Ratagan Youth Hostel, this had a gentle sloping seabed with a muddy bottom. Here lies a huge amount of Short-Clawed Squat Lobster, Brittle Stars, Harbour Crabs and Jellyfish. This dive was unbelievable in terms of the sheer amount of life and is a Macro Photographers dream with life that was not only in high abundance but were also confident allowing you to truly take your time in getting the shot.

The second Dive Site is known by the unfortunate name of the Rubbish Dump, this dive site sits below a small lay by that is known for dumping rubbish, and when you go underwater you see why. The wall was covered in rubbish that ranged from plates, fishing line, car tyres, and even more shocking, was the sheer amount of animal remains with skulls and bags of bones littering the seabed. Even with this sheer amount of waste present at the site, there was life clinging to the debris, from crabs who made makeshift homes beneath the rubbish, Lauren even found a Mermaids Purse that had been wrapped around discarded fishing line but after Lauren did a quick check, she concluded that the egg wasn’t hindered and rather than try and move it and damage the egg she decided to leave it to develop.

After the dive at the Rubbish Dump, Chris spotted what was first believed to be an Otter but as a surprise sighting it turned out to be an invasive American Mink who swam past the team with what was believed to be a Rockling in its mouth, only a few shots were able to be taken before it darted under some rocks.

The final Dive site of the first day is known as School Bay, this is once again a dive site with a muddy bottom. The mission on this dive was to find and photograph a Fireworks Anemone and Sea Pens. The dive site is essentially a bowl that drops to around 25 metres. Chris advised us to follow the slope down into the Bowl at a depth of 20-25 Metres and here we found huge amounts of life from Sea Pens, Sea Whips, Long-Spined Sea Scorpion and of course we found Fireworks Anemone. This site was being swept by a gentle current which was shown by how many filter feeding animals that were present here.

The only problems that we ran into on this site, was entry and exit from the water, as it was over a very rocky beach, followed by shallow areas with thick algae, so extra care was taken when walking and swimming with cameras.

After day one the team returned to the campsite and settled down, after eating and preparing cameras for the second day, to dive briefings for day 2 which were delivered by Chris and Lauren.

Day two in Scotland was a day of drift dives which first lead the team up to Conservation Bay a short drive from the campsite and a short walk down a slope to a gentle shore entry. The dive started on shallow kelp bed, but with a short swim out however had us swimming out into a gentle drift dive, the walls here were covered in Dead Man’s Fingers, Kelp and Anemones. Ollie managed to get some incredible footage here of the walls and life that clung in the gentle drift.

The second dive was another short drive to Castle Bay, a beautiful dive site which had Strome Castle overlooking the bay that we were diving in. The current on this dive was much faster, however manageable when we were trying to capture imagery and footage of the site. The walls on this site were once again adorned with Dead Man’s Fingers, Anemones, and Common Urchins, however the drift was fast enough that it lasted for around 20 minutes before slowing in much slower water. The wall at this point flattened out and became a gentle sandy floor with huge amounts of flatfish, decorator Crabs, Moon Jellyfish and Nudibranchs. This area alone would have constituted a dive all on its own due to the abundance of life that was present.

The final dive of day two was a quiet one with only two members of our team going down for this one, as other members of us went off to photograph the site from above water and conduct drone shots for the Expedition film that is currently in production. It was Chris and Ross who decided to get in for the final dive of the Scottish leg and they dived on a huge Maerl bed, Maerl is a hard Seaweed that forms huge carpets on the seabed and creates a diverse habitat for other wildlife, they reported back after the dive after seeing Nudibranchs, Butterfish and Flame Shells amongst the Maerl beds. Scotland was finished off with Chris and Lauren giving their interviews about what they do at Shark & Skate Citizen Science Scotland, along with some time to take images of some of the expedition’s sponsors.

After the final dive we spent an hour or so filming and taking photographs of expedition sponsors, and the general scenery before heading back to the campsite for the evening. The evening was spent with us chatting about the amazing diving we’d had during the Scottish leg and spoke about the next stop on Expedition WET’s itinerary, this was of course beautiful North Wales.

Tune in for the next entry of Expedition WET’s Trip report where I’ll be collaborating with Co-Scubaverse blogger Jake Davies, where we’ll be talking about Project Seagrass and about what the team saw and achieved during this amazing leg of the journey.

Header Image: WET Team in Neptunic gear. Photo Credit – Hannah Rose Milanković

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Wining and Diving – Gozo

Nick and Caroline Robertson-Brown



The Wining and Diving series sees Nick and Caroline Robertson-Brown embark on a tour to tickle the taste buds as well as to discover amazing dive sites in wine-making regions around the world. Some of the best wines are influenced by sea breezes and a coastal climate, allowing two of Nick and Caroline’s passions to be combined into one epic journey.

**Please note, Nick and Caroline are not encouraging drinking before diving! The two activities are kept well apart on each of these trips.

Gozo is one of the most popular diving destinations for British divers, offering stunning underwater scenic dives along with plenty of wreck diving. Add to this the sunshine, professional dive centres and the relatively short flight and it is a perfect short-haul getaway.

We went for a long weekend dive conference and had heard that there was also an excellent vineyard on the island for us to try out on our non-diving day before flying home – perfect! With only two days of diving on the itinerary we wanted to pack in a much as we could, but the weather and the fact that Caroline had fallen down the stairs the week before and was struggling to walk very far – we needed help and the team at Calypso Divers really went out of their way to accommodate us, so rather that the usual shore diving the island has to offer, we started out visiting some of the most popular dives by boat.

Cathedral Rock and the Blue Hole showed off the dramatic seascape that is a feature of Gozo, with cliffs towering up out of the sea, caves and caverns where the power of the waves has created an underwater playground for divers. We visit Crocodile rock to see the schools of barracuda and to hunt for nudibranchs.

Our final dive saw us visit the wreck of the MV Karwela. This wreck is famous for its staircase that divers can descend and makes for an excellent photo opportunity.

Gozo is also well worth exploring top-side, with beautiful beaches, plenty of history and some lovely places to stop, relax and enjoy the food and drink of the region. We visit the family-owned Tal-Massar winery which hosts twice-weekly tours for groups, taking guests through the winery’s private estate and allowing them to enjoy the spectacular, unspoiled surroundings.

Tours also include a wine tasting featuring at least four different wines, plus traditional Gozo bread and cheese, sundried tomatoes and cold pressed olive oil. It was all delicious!


  • For more information about Frogfish Photography click here.
  • For information about visiting Malta and Gozo click here.
  • For details on the dive centre we dived with click here.
  • For more information about the wine we sampled: Tal-Massar Winery
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